Hard to believe six years have passed since Rathbun's signaled Atlanta's u-turn from a clubby party city to a more refined collection of world-class eateries. Or at least that's what I heard. Like one million others, I wasn't here in 2004, and I've waited far too long to indulge in this Inman Park pillar. Rathbun's and its sister, the spunky Krog Bar
, are strikingly beautiful spaces, first and foremost. The bathroom murals, soaring curtains and exposed brick up the cool factor. The grub is Modern American Cuisine, relying heavily on meaty offerings like the 20 ounce ribeye with blue cheese that helped this place join America's top steak houses, or so claimed Details magazine a few years back. Menu offerings range from "big plates" to "second mortgage plates" and vary from $15 to a gulp-worthy $39. The sprawling parking lot makes, well, parking a cinch. Valet is offered, in case you get off on that.