Remember when gastropubs first started appearing? When darkened local holes smelling of piss and vinegar began to morph into a new form of establishment; a pub where you could actually see out of the windows, where you no longer got glassed three times per pint and the food began to get seriously good? I don't. No, it was now so long ago that barely anyone remembers this seminal time in simultaneous eating and drinking. Also, somewhere along the line the gastroisation process went a little awry, too many 'gastros' converted too half-heartedly, too many Foxtons estate agents started drinking in your local, the chains moved in, etc. All this resulted in a swath of half-hearted, rather boring places. Well, a recent foray to The Star reminded me of how well gastro can be done. Upon first entering, my gaze drifting across the little-too-trendy decor, I was tempted to think 'trying too hard'. Persevering nevertheless, the fine selection of drinks soon impressed, and my dinner was so seriously, enormously tasty that it is currently ranking as one of the finest I have recently enjoyed. Promises of live music during the week are tempting me back. Yes, well recommended.